So when I found out that Budgie was not top down I knew that I was going to make two from the start. One mostly as written found here in part 1 and the other "from the top"! I bought yarn for both sweaters at the same time. As soon as I was done knitting the 1st (noticed I did not say "finishing") I moved on to figure out how the heck I would convert it to be a top down totally seamless venture.NOTE: I totally just "cowboyed" this whole dang thing (which means I made it up as I went. Although when I looked it up on line to see if other people use this term, it has a whole different meaning. Mine is better and I'll stick with it) so don't go thinking I actually know whats going on. Mine turned out really great for me. Sure you can kinda tell where the increases are but I must confess I did not block this sweater. When it was done it went right into use because kids grow up faster than I can knit!
That being said here is how I went about doing the pattern from the top for size 18-24 (both sweaters are the same size)
The down and dirty details:
Size: 18-24 months (it's in this post twice because I forgot it in the last post. Oops!)
Gauge: 21.3 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
: US 6 for main body US 5 icord trim
Yarns: (Color A)Fibranatura Yummy 1 skein in grey dawn (370 yards)
(Color B)Debbie Bliss Rialto DK 2 skeins in grey (230 yards)Yarns: (Color A)Fibranatura Yummy 1 skein in grey dawn (370 yards)
(Color C)Debbie Bliss Rialto 4 ply 1 skein in red(198 yards)
For this version I played with adding buttons instead of using a zipper. I think I prefer the zipper but those fish were just too darn cute.With Color C cast on 51 Stitches and knit 5 rows ( 3 garter ridges) Break yarn and join Color A
**Working in Straight Stitch and switching between colors A and B every 2 rows
1st increase Row (RS) K3, *M1, K2; repeat until last 4 stitches* M1 K4 (83 sts)
P row in color A. Join color B (do not break color A)
Work 4 rows in pattern **
2nd increase (RS) K2, *M1, K3* (110 sts)
Knit 9 rows in pattern
3rd increase (RS) K2, *M1, K3* (146 sts)
Knit 11 rows in pattern
4th increase (RS) K2, *M1, K4* (182 sts)
Knit 8 rows in pattern
Sleeve row: knit 27 sts, place 36 sts on a piece of scrap yarn or holder, knit 56 sts, place 36 sts on a piece of scrap yarn or holder, knit 27.
Knit until desired length in pattern. I personally prefer to make my sweaters for kids and babies a bit on the long side. This way it covers their back when they reach up and play. I never understood why many store bought sweaters and sweater patterns are short and boxy.
You will end as Budgie begins although backwards from working 2 rows in MC to the bind off. You will do the contrast bind off instead of cast on. *NOTE If this does not make sense I'm sorry but I really wanted to be careful not to put the whole pattern up here. I am working on the assumption that you already have the Budgie pattern and are just looking to modify it for top down.
Sleeves:
Working in Straight Stitch in the round and switching between colors A and B every 2 rows
Place 36 sts from hold onto needles Pick Up 8 sts (44sts) from armpit area ( I'm bad at this part but I fix any holes when I weave in ends)
Knit in pattern until the sleeve measures 3 inches from armpit
Decrease round 1: K2, Ktog, knit to last 4 stitches, K2, Ktog. (42 sts)
Knit in pattern for 11 rounds
Decrease round 2: K2, Ktog, knit to last 4 stitches, K2, Ktog. (40 sts)
Knit in pattern for 11 rounds
Decrease round 3: K2, Ktog, knit to last 4 stitches, K2, Ktog. (38 sts)
(Done with decreasing) knit 11 rounds than finish as the sleeves begins but use contrast bind off instead of cast on. (*see note after end of body)
Finish as for zipper in Budgie or with buttons if you choose!
Wow, that was a lot of typing. I hope if you do try following these directions that all goes well. I did knit a second top down budgie and it was also fine. Good Luck!
