Slacker Sweater

Belted with an amazing belt from my fav, Anthropologie.

This was literally a year in the making from start to finish. The yarn was a pain to work with and I swore that I would never ever use cotton yarn again (more on that aonther time). I also used a different yarn for the trim which just made for almost unbearably slooooow going and I don't recommend it. At least the end result is a good one, no?

The Low Down

Pattern: Lilas by Hilary Smith Callis

Yarn: Louisa Harding nautical cotton, Louisa Harding Glisten for the trim.

Modifications: I just made it a tad longer and the sleeves a tad shorter.

I must mention the lack of real good photos. Boy, it is so hard to take pictures of yourself. Seriously, even with a tripod, if the lights not right or your pose is off or a kid runs into the picture the picture is blown. It's really easy to talk myself out of a photo shoot. If it weren't for that I'd probably blog more often. I hate taking the photos, there I said it. I like creating the "things" and talking about them but I really dislike the taking of the photo, uploading and placing the picture on the blog. UGH! So I'm sorry for the lame photos but it was this or wait another month for the stars to align.

Shazam Shalom, you can do it too!

Pretty button that cost almost as much as the yarn

Really on a roll now. I knit this in...wait for it...a week from start to finish not including the dang blocking which this sweater does need.

Unblocked

I actually started this sweater on Thursday the 21st but had to frog and start over and I finished it on Thursday the 28th but didn't have a button and had to go get one on Friday.

Blocked, this sweater has an odd shaped when flat but looks really nice on.

The Low Down

Pattern: Shalom

Yarn: Cascade Eco Wool

Gauge: 13 Stitches = 4 Inches

I was hot to knit this because I'm teaching a class about top down sweaters at my LYS Knit Around in Ann Arbor in fact this very pattern. I have already made a Shalom once before but it was modified in all kinds of ways (sleeves, no waist shaping, short rows in the back). The challenge here was to knit it as written.

When I say challenge I mean it. It took everything I had not to modify this pattern, not because it's a poor pattern but as it turns out I don't think I've made anything lately that was as written. It's a bad habit I have of just changing stuff. Liking the basics but doing things to make it exactly what I want or how I like to knit.

So hard to take a picture to capture how nice it looks.

Probably didn't help that I was the model and Photographer.

This sweater is a great first sweater for any knitter who knows how to knit and purl. You learn a lot, you can finish it pretty quickly, and there are only two ends to weave in! If your interested and live near the Ann Arbor area sign up! Class is in the evening 6-7:30 May 25th and June 8th.

From the Top! Budgie #2

So when I found out that Budgie was not top down I knew that I was going to make two from the start. One mostly as written found here in part 1 and the other "from the top"! I bought yarn for both sweaters at the same time. As soon as I was done knitting the 1st (noticed I did not say "finishing") I moved on to figure out how the heck I would convert it to be a top down totally seamless venture.

NOTE: I totally just "cowboyed" this whole dang thing (which means I made it up as I went. Although when I looked it up on line to see if other people use this term, it has a whole different meaning. Mine is better and I'll stick with it) so don't go thinking I actually know whats going on. Mine turned out really great for me. Sure you can kinda tell where the increases are but I must confess I did not block this sweater. When it was done it went right into use because kids grow up faster than I can knit!

That being said here is how I went about doing the pattern from the top for size 18-24 (both sweaters are the same size)

The down and dirty details:
Size: 18-24 months (it's in this post twice because I forgot it in the last post. Oops!)

Gauge: 21.3 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch

Needle size: US 6 for main body US 5 icord trim
Yarns: (Color A)Fibranatura Yummy 1 skein in grey dawn (370 yards)

(Color B)Debbie Bliss Rialto DK 2 skeins in grey (230 yards)
(Color C)Debbie Bliss Rialto 4 ply 1 skein in red(198 yards)

For this version I played with adding buttons instead of using a zipper. I think I prefer the zipper but those fish were just too darn cute.

With Color C cast on 51 Stitches and knit 5 rows ( 3 garter ridges) Break yarn and join Color A

**Working in Straight Stitch and switching between colors A and B every 2 rows

1st increase Row (RS) K3, *M1, K2; repeat until last 4 stitches* M1 K4 (83 sts)
P row in color A. Join color B (do not break color A)

Work 4 rows in pattern **

2nd increase (RS) K2, *M1, K3* (110 sts)

Knit 9 rows in pattern

3rd increase (RS) K2, *M1, K3* (146 sts)

Knit 11 rows in pattern

4th increase (RS) K2, *M1, K4* (182 sts)

Knit 8 rows in pattern

Sleeve row: knit 27 sts, place 36 sts on a piece of scrap yarn or holder, knit 56 sts, place 36 sts on a piece of scrap yarn or holder, knit 27.

Knit until desired length in pattern. I personally prefer to make my sweaters for kids and babies a bit on the long side. This way it covers their back when they reach up and play. I never understood why many store bought sweaters and sweater patterns are short and boxy.


You will end as Budgie begins although backwards from working 2 rows in MC to the bind off. You will do the contrast bind off instead of cast on. *NOTE If this does not make sense I'm sorry but I really wanted to be careful not to put the whole pattern up here. I am working on the assumption that you already have the Budgie pattern and are just looking to modify it for top down.


Sleeves:

Working in Straight Stitch in the round and switching between colors A and B every 2 rows

Place 36 sts from hold onto needles Pick Up 8 sts (44sts) from armpit area ( I'm bad at this part but I fix any holes when I weave in ends)

Knit in pattern until the sleeve measures 3 inches from armpit

Decrease round 1: K2, Ktog, knit to last 4 stitches, K2, Ktog. (42 sts)

Knit in pattern for 11 rounds

Decrease round 2: K2, Ktog, knit to last 4 stitches, K2, Ktog. (40 sts)

Knit in pattern for 11 rounds

Decrease round 3: K2, Ktog, knit to last 4 stitches, K2, Ktog. (38 sts)

(Done with decreasing) knit 11 rounds than finish as the sleeves begins but use contrast bind off instead of cast on. (*see note after end of body)

Finish as for zipper in Budgie or with buttons if you choose!

Wow, that was a lot of typing. I hope if you do try following these directions that all goes well. I did knit a second top down budgie and it was also fine. Good Luck!